Wow, I completely missed this thread.
Three 'n' One remix [1997]:
I've shifted between the Kid Paul mix and this as my favorite version of Cafe del Mar, but frankly the Three 'n' One remix tends to win.
The first 2:10 minutes are fairly normal and don't tell much about the track itself. Then, that little section without high hats pops up, and you can hear snippets of the lead synth with what I can only assume is a lot of reverb. The track really starts to shire around the 4:49 mark, the start of the breakdown. Without spoiling it too much, I hope you can realize by yourself why this track was the #1 in Mixmag's "best 100 tunes" list from 2001, and why it was voted the best dance track from 1991-2011 by BBC Radio 1 listeners.
The craziest part is that, in retrospect, it doesn't sound commercial or cheesy at all. Maybe it would sound cheesy if you've strictly heard early '90s intense rave music, but from a 2020 perspective it's just a fine dance track that doesn't feel like it was made to pander to the masses of its time.
The Heritage Orchestra covered the Three 'n' One remix live for the Radio 1 Ibiza Prom in 2015, and it's just a delight to hear.